West Highland Way Challenge – Blog

Hello hikers. Here we are with just 12 hours until our trip begins. It promises to be a wonderful time together. A magnificent mental and physical feat. Milngavie to Fort William, 96 miles of splendour. Plus, of course, an addition to the West Highland Way, what locals call: ‘The Ben’.

After months of training, the group arrives moments away; from the trip to match all hiking routes in the world. On a good week, the Highlands contend with the most prestigious regions worldwide. On a bad week, you’re throttled through a dishwasher.

In 1980, the WHW was established as the first “long-footpath” in Scotland. And we’ll treat it as such. A day out. A jolly. A grand mystery. Laughs, gasps…uknowns.

Here we are, packing, deliberating, planning. Boots, raincoat, waterproof overtrousers, water – the killer requirements. The fifth necessary item – a good attitude. Each team member from our 50+ – will play a vital role in forming our constitution.

‘Till the morning of Saturday.

As one we march on.

400 miles to the start of our adventure.

11th Sept at Ekta Centre – the catering team & some other volunteers made Thepla, Debra, Chuttnies, Dessert for the week long trek.

We began in dribs and drabs, scattering in from our homes. Soon to find our new places of comfort aboard our designated minibuses. A quick photo, a quick pack up, and keys in ignition – off we went.

Chugging along the motorway, post-prayers…we indulged in opening conversations. Family catchups, topics debated, naps attempted, miles clocked.

Not long before the lunch packages were pried open, goods were consumed with Costa cups drained. The vada delighted, and chikki sweetened.

More miles clocked. Light chat continued. Hindi tunes vibrated.

Soon enough…a reunited force, two buses pitstopping alongside one another. Brief lunches – maybe it was our second lunch of the day, time warped.

Carlisle arrived blissfully, the last recognisable patch of English soil. Then over the boarder into Dumfries and Galloway – stopping at Gretna Green. Aye, we arrived in this great nation that supplies us mountains. 280 munroes exist here, that’s 280 mountains above 3,000ft (915m). Some attempt the lot in a lifetime. Not us, we have arrived at the grand hostel for the WHW.

Unpack, check-in, devour mung bhaat. Kitchen is jiving. A flurry of activity. Wraps wrapped. Food heated. Vegetables sliced. Humans on overdrive, an intoxicating operation of moving hands. Cleaning, spooning, spreading, whirling, twirling. Narrow spaces, loud voices. Harmony and franticity.

A large box emerged as a candlelit cake. Birthday wishes granted. Briefings commanded. Questions raised. Advise shared. Rows of hikers on seats, anticipating, forecasting, digesting.

Packing, lots of packing, sorting. Checking. Checking again. Readiness questioned. Nerves alleviated.

Showers, beds, snooze.

‘Till the morning sun rises.

As one we march on.

Milngavie to Milarrochy – distance 20 miles with about 900 ft of ascent.

Time to get up. It’s not wanted, but it is necessary. Eyes stinging. Feet fresh…not for long. Trudging through morning rituals. Down to the dungeon dinner hall. Eyes stop bleeding. Smiles start emerging. Birds start tweeting.

It’s morning.

Packing – always on the agenda. Laces – always require tying. Corridors – always situate greetings.

Buses peel away, as the mundanity of headcounts occur. Concentration lapses, one is forgotten, we tragically reverse, as our comrade shuttles up and down the pavement at the mouth of the hostel. Who’s fault it was, we can’t decide, as we chuckle our way into gear.

Ceremonial photos are taken at landmark spots and we begin our WHW walk, or more appropriately: challenge. Fresh with enthusiasm, and hearty fuel, we were undeterred by the 96miles that lay ahead. And maybe we were right to be, the unity might just carry us through.

We walked and walked. The footpaths were finely designed and signed. Leaders and sweepers took care of the rest. The scenes were fairly limited, the clouds evident, and our subgroups were bonding well. The forgotten team member shared chai from a flask, and any miscommunications were forgiven, that first sip was divine. Little of note occurred in those early miles, food punctuated the morning and marked our first checkpoint also.

The team graciously supplemented our provisions with hot drinks (chai and mung nu pani). A good wet lunch – note, it was also raining.

We continued on at pace, and the injured were nursed. Spirits remained sufficiently buoyant, until the rain. Always the rain.

It wasn’t quite drudgery, as the route was tempered by beautiful lakes and green textures. It was a flat day, and we were thankful. As we steamed on to the final miles our hoods were up and our heads were down.

The surroundings smelt different as they always do with rain. Our moods shifted in a parallel way. The minibuses became muggy but the rest was plentiful.

The evening routine followed, with showers and meals the highlights. We prepared for the following day.

The briefing felt more directive, although it was suitably balanced with hints of humour. We were given a pat on the back, pleased with our efforts on hike one (20miles).

It begins again in the morrow.

As one we march on.

Milarrochy to Inverarnan – distance 20 miles with about 1500 ft of ascent.

Started the same way. Up out. Shake it all about. Views down the pier were fabulous, lake, mountains… a backdrop for the history books. 50 walkers – hikers feels more fitting. 16 volunteers – angels seems more fitting.

Minibuses piled out the car park 0600, 0630, 0700. In quick succession like tanks heading out for warfare. Troops gathered, ammunition prepared…although, minds ill-prepared for the unpredictable day ahead.

A 21miler to knock off that 96mile total. In the thick of it, the WHW in full swing. Loch Lomond on our left the entirity of the walk. Stunning shores, endearingly referred to as beaches. Perhaps, this was to give us the comfort that we were in a place of relaxation. We were not.

Bogs, marshes, soaked feet; caked in silt and sweat.

The rubble underfoot was a menace. Pricking every pore of the sole. The streams screamed underfoot. Roots, trunks, rocks, moss. Slippery, slidey, slimey.

Rising and falling, on repeat. A deadly snaking pathway. Boulders. Crates. Mother Earth threw it all at us.

Battery levels drained away quickly. Difficult to recharge. Impossible to rejuvenate.

The checkpoint at the hotel certainly had a view. Picnic benches were justifiably flooded. Crisps, sandwiches, chai, chocolate, baked goods – the usual – the necessary.

The second half of the day was…challenging. The fast group raced away fittingly, exhausted for sure. The medium and slow group were tested. Frailties surfaced regularly.

A dizziness came over us. None of it made sense. The medium group split into two to ensure safe trekking. The slow group required additional headtorches, escorted over by a pair of experienced fast group fellas.

They came at the right hour. Rescue time. The group was strong, it was the lighting that helped and the fresh perspectives. Advise was shared. Spirits were lifted, and the group charged on as they were – excellently. They showed grit and determination. Physical and mental stamina.

Time in the dark was adventurous, new, stretching and fulfilling. The celebrations that evening symbolised victory. We were content with our achievements, every one of us.

Joy filled our hearts.

All 66 team members played their part.

Looking ahead, we ought to wake with simplicity in the air. A less demanding day. The laughs central as always. The generosity frequent.

As one we march on.

Inverarnan to Tyndrum – distance 12 miles with about 1300 ft of ascent.

Periodic rain. Toast was buttered and jammed. Sun spread across the landscape. The mist was rolling over the mountain tops. Gush-gush – waterfalls deafening. Cascaded footfall. Something about walking in a single file. Ants marching through the valley. Backs hoisted. Shoulders ladden.

Woolen clouds grazing. Specks of white, splattered across the landscape. Fir trees standing erect. Watching over our colony. Tall and looming. Naked trunks rising from the Earth, boney fingers reaching for their neighbours. Bare land scarred; tainted by loggers.

Supply vans packed with freshly cooked fuel. Chai steaming from cups. Crackling foil revealing sandwiches and thepla – slathered with chutney.

Passengers saluted our endeavours, planted in comfy carriages. Tracks winding into the distance. Red slicing into the green.

Jumping for joy. White vans parked up, a sign of the foreseeable end.

Dinner. Hot showers. Washed hair. Feeling gooood.

Yummy. SRDB (shaak roti dhal bhaat). Talk of a theory: a triangle, the sides: 1. health 2. time 3. money. Simulating life’s mission.

Speeches closed the day – three inspiring tales. Yet to be broadcast.

Gatherings continued, sofas compressed.

Conversations paused.

As one we march on.

Inverarnan to Tyndrum – distance 12 miles with about 1300 ft of ascent.

Hello and welcome to Wednesday blog. I don’t know how many days of the hike we’ve done. But I feel like mixing it up and giving something from the heart.

So, many brilliant people. I woke up absolutely horrified, 3 hours sleep, acid reflux (it certainly wasn’t the catering team). What happened? At about 12 after Preena and I banged off the blog, I got the reflux – grim pain. I meditated for an hour and then walked around the lounge. Sanjay Shah, probably on his third toilet visit that AM bumped into me, was super worried and helpful.

I took a bunch of meds and cancelled the next day for myself. I am not trekking on 3hr sleep with reflux, no. I was all sulky. Wearing my hoodie up like a teenager.

Anyway, I debated helping the cooking team, after wishing well the other groups. That was the fun bit, hoping all goes well for the others, my now friends and family! Pk, Ramesh and Bina motivating everyone and being early and prepared to get them out the door.

I felt bad ditching everyone. As I was supposed to help the slow team, by being in the middle and allowing them to do as they were but have a link centrally, to keep the group tight and therefore motivated.

That didnt happen. I watched stupid YouTube videos for an hour, seeing the state of the world via the Emmy’s. I enjoyed watching Stephen Graham sink 2 awards, best actor and writer – for Adolescence. Acid reflux turned to headache but we all had issues here and there. Some struggle to socialise, some like home comforts, some like time to take photos (Shah twins).

There was also the chess game that was competitive until it wasnt, with Rishi. He ended up devoting himself to the kitchen team to serve us. Sanjay Malde, Sanjay Shah, Amrish, Rajan and I went to feed the others at lunch checkpoint.

I particularly enjoyed the novelty of Maldes accent, and his sports gear as he athletically handed out chais. Amrish as usual, was on the details, advising the walkers on timings, terrain, milage. Rajan, happy as usual. Sanjay Shah, hugging, high fiving – a true delight.

Pk, Ramsey and Bina came through in quick succession. That tells me they all walked well. Cloudy day, few views so was just about marching on. I joined in. Hoping I could add vibes. Pk asked my group – I said ‘fast’ – he hugged me and said ‘love you long time’. Where does he get this stuff from?

We walk, talk. Thats it really, welcome to the definition of a hiking club.

Few pictures. Few laughs. Definition of hiking.

Finished, I led stretching, breathing and yoga vibes in a circle. Was fun. And good to cool down. Next was the chilling on bus, many of us falling asleep. I was lucky to get a nice cuddle , always wonderful. Next was chilling, jenga, cold water plunges in the river, nachos (I went for a shower at the wrong time), wonderful salsa, beans, salad, avo, sour creme, cheese burritos.

Hinesh spoke about his dental group activists in Mozambique, where the population is 70mil and only 30 dentists in the country.

Yogesh did a cool mime/song called Tony’s Chestnuts, where we stood up and touched the corresponding body parts. Ie toe, knees, chest, nut (head).

Hershil, thats me, I did a chat about my heritage trip to India last year and what I learned and experienced in the 4 states I visited, it felt personal.

Inverarnan to Tyndrum – distance 12 miles with about 1300 ft of ascent.

Chasing Rainbows

The morning routines take place. The hustle and bustle of the day. We bashed and swerved around one another, reaching for mugs, cutlery, teas, and biscuits – the simplest pleasures to begin the day.

Music is pumping. The hikers are ready. The rain and wind come in hard and fast. The top group headed off. The double rainbows appeared. All were able to stop and snap photos. Lots of photos.

The rainbows were a beauty…yet, the rain was working its hardest to claw away our spirits. 2 or 3
miles of flat, wet and windy conditions – a real blizzard. Some, or possibly most had not experienced these types of conditions.

As a unit we rapidly learnt it was not worth waiting for mother nature to gift us. It was best to put layers on immediately – one can never know on a hike. We began shifting into proofs. Bags, bodies, feet, heads, faces all covered and hidden from the rain.

Breaks taken under any available cover from branches. Soon the second half of the day came, warmth drifted up through our clothing and steamed off our skin. Layering off once again. The relief was strong. Yet, we saw the clouds deviously lingering. Only, rainbows once again consumed us. Throughout the day rainbows stayed with us – haloing the skies above. The aesthetics of it were glorious, at times double rainbows also.

These days are unlikely to be forgotten, long, sharp, vivid, stunning, gorgeous rainbows.

The evening warmth of fuel, lounging and socialising was equally rewarding.

Another day experienced. Another day ticked off.

As one we march on.

Kinlochleven to Fort William – distance 15 miles with about 1660 ft of ascent.

6am alarm. It says a lot that my foggy brain can’t even remember the first moment of the day. I arose with 1.5hrs to go – be on bus. Looking outside, the light was yet to shine. Kartik and I took our morning dip in the cold river, under the bridge across the way…

After that we felt good and ready. Eating breakfast, preparing for the day, kit and all. Then onto the bus. We got there after a 45m journey. Same procedure – same place as usual, for the start.

We start in a valley, a town. It was peaceful and lots of WHW walkers there. Toilet stops done. We are now on the one mile up. Quick de-layer and we are off. Up, up, up. It’s was a while till the first break. It was a good one.

The day morning was open type space. Soon enough, the valley opened up into forestry. It was a nice change, which we enjoyed.

Now, we could truly state we were emersed in the Highlands. Forests, dark green – trees, light green – skies, blue.

We did lunch at a few logs, sitting down and no one really talked. Even after that. Post lunch: 30m silence walk. The best views came then, by chance? Or because we were present?

Then the long wind down. Checkpoint Rishi and Ramsey received us, but we had not checkpoint drop outs.

We went down the wrong path, a couple thought it was the end and bought coffees. I arrived running telling them we got it wrong. The choice was made to go back up the hill – totally unnecessary and adding pain.

Finished on highstreet WHW 96 miles.

There are lots of pics on the tiered steps. Great action shots. Good beautiful faces, happy, in pain, and posing.

The man on the bench, shot a number of times.

Food and beverages consumed in a merry fashion.

Brilliant pau bhaji, Thai soup, uttapum, salad and digested.

Briefing – heavy feeling ahead of Ben Nevis.

Quiz good fun. Great delivery and lots of topics.

Goodnight and God bless.

Let’s see what Nevis bring.

As one we march on.

Ben Nevis – distance 10 miles and 4,300 feet of ascent!!!

730 boots tied. Layers packed. The Big Ben ahead. Some go to London, we came Fort William. All over the bridge and across the way. Now it’s time to slay. Walking through the rocky path. We all waited for the clouds to part. Each of us wanting sun, but finding none. Red flags marked the way, so the runners knew where to run, and it allowed us to stay well clear of them.

As the day went on, it became clear that each groups starting team was going to break up. It required strong communication, and the 8 walkies that PK dolled out did the job. We all were fluid, allowing strong interplay between the groups. As the steep first hill came, we hung in there. Then came lots of zig zags. It was cloudy so no views. Today was about the climb, and teamwork.

Keeping morale strong and staying tight. All leads and sweeps did exceptionally well. The clouds did part for a gift of sun rays. We saw several blue glistening, ice like lakes. Huge mountains. I repeat, huge mountains.

The 1350m peak was our flavour of the day. The Highlands below us sparkled. The people grimaced in pain. The people smiled with glee. The rain bashed down in pellets. Bullets piercing our skin. The wind cutting to the bone. Layer up!

As we climbed we met visitors and friends alike. Congratulating, celebrating. We humoured each other.

The hugs and high fives were plentiful.

The meals and specifically the serving team were top notch.

So much joy and community filled our hearts.

The love had no bounds, were were humans in unison – wholesome.

A group of familiar people, a group of strangers – all as one.

Those who were struggling provided the greatest joy by giving us the pleasure to share their achievements.

So much joy all in one room. In one room. In one lounge. In one kitchen. In one group. In one society.

The lord blessed us with refreshing waldoff salad and plenty of other delights such as mogo, and of course noodles with veggies. Freshly cooked with abundant love.

Love was the theme of the day. Community was the highlight of the week.

Scotland fed us in heaps.

Whw 96 miles. Ben nevis 1350m.

Let it be known…

We did march on.

Yet, we have time ahead, as individuals to take our knew selves into the world, always growing and always adapting to greater bliss.

As one we march on.

Bid farewell to the friends old and new as we head back to London.

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